The restaurant has been awarded the Best of Award of Excellence since 2003 by Wine Spectator and offers about 820 bottles.
All these wines are poured over a gracious heart pine bar that is more than a century old. African-themed fabric cover the bar seats while wine bottles line the wall behind the bar.
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By Tom Crosby
Zebra Restaurant and Wine Bar in Charlotte tastefully blends contemporary lines associated with French dining with the natural, earthy feeling of the Serengeti Plain. Warm honeyed wood walls and beams offer a soothing contrast to the black and white place settings.
Guests enter through the wine bar, complete with a large selection of Cabernets, Californian wines and a growing selection of hard-to-find wines from around the world. The restaurant has been awarded the Best of Award of Excellence since 2003 by Wine Spectator and offers about 820 bottles.
All these wines are poured over a gracious heart pine bar that is more than a century old. African-themed fabric cover the bar seats while wine bottles line the wall behind the bar.
When walking to be seated, guests walk by a cozy stone fireplace adorned with a pine mantle (about three tables are positioned near the fireplace for fireside dining). Resting on that mantle are numerous autographed items such as wine bottles and menus. One menu has been signed by both Elizabeth Dole and Erskin Bowles - a fun contrast owner Jim Alexander likes to point out. Other items have been signed by Carolina Panthers players and even Coach John Fox.
 That fun, flexible atmosphere spreads to the patio, where live music can be heard on Thursday and Friday evenings during the summer. Tucked around the corner in the Wall Street Capitol Building, Zebra’s outside dining is away from parking, allowing guests to enjoy a relaxing meal outside without much distraction. Outside dining is under a large black awning and can accommodate up to 70 for a meal.
Inside in the main dining area, tables are set with black napkins resting inside wine glasses adjacent to a single black lamp-style candlestick, lit by the server once you are seated.
A white table cloth and white plates are encircled by black cushioned chairs. Soft lighting comes from above, with sparkling balls of lights wrapped in toole.
Art and a few antiques displayed accent the honey-colored walls. But the art is just the beginning of the creative aesthetic presentation.
Owner Alexander also focuses on creating artistic dishes in his dual role as Executive Chef.
“I aim to have a central focal point,” said Alexander as he describes how each meal is presented with both light and dark foods.
For example, the Duet of Lamb Napoleon is served with lamb resting on dark pommery chevre mash atop creamy, cheesy mashed potatoes.
Fresh geometric shapes bring pizzazz to the meal. An amuse bouche of salmon tartar is served on a dish the shape of a painter’s palate; salads are served in bowls over triangular plates; triangular butter slices lean on each other on a center plate awaiting to be spread on bread.
Throughout the dining room, panels holding paintings on loan to the restaurant are adorned with corks. On one wall a large mahogany-colored riddling rack is displayed. According to Geoff Alexander, the chef’s son and the restaurant’s wine steward, the rack came from France and once held bottles from the Champagne region that were given just a small twist by the one man in charge. This was the riddle: that only one man knew just how often and how much any of the bottles had been turned and when they would be ready for enjoyment.
To the right of the main dining area and separated by indoor paned windows is the Serengeti Room, an ideal spot for private parties or business meetings. Guests enjoy the meal under a wall-length painting of an African scene, complete with zebras, of course. Media technology installed in the room makes business meetings easily accommodated.
 The meal
With all the pains taken for presentation, meals are so flavorful they would be delicious if served on a paper plate. Appetizers such as sauteed foie gras with Oregon black truffles ooze with rich taste. Another fun appetizer is the Provencale Shellfish “Martini”, which includes lump crab, lobster, shrimp, clams and squid served with tomato and olive.
But the appetizer that is a must-try is the jumbo lump crab cake.
“We don’t use any breadcrumbs that would dilute the flavor of the fresh seafood,” said the older Alexander, who was trained at the Culinary Institute of America.
The freshness of the crab - and all seafood - is guaranteed since it is brought in daily.
Another fresh daily item is the bread, made using the same recipe used since the restaurant opened in 2001.
Salads such as a simple mesclun salad kick when topped with pinenuts, capers, olives and chevre. Additionally, Alexander spreads an extra fresh taste to salads by sprinkling fresh baby arugula brought in from Tega Hills Greenhouses in Fort Mill, SC.
Entrees include rich meats such as ostrich, lamb and steaks. Wild striped bass comes alongside butter poached Alaskan King crab less and a Swiss chard bundle.
And Zebra is one fine-dining restaurant that isn’t afraid to include trout on the menu. The recipe was passed down from Chef Alexander’s uncle who caught fish along the banks of West Virginia rivers. Extra originality in the dish comes from the sides: celeriac polenta cake, sauteed spinach and baby carrots along with crawfish scallion butter.
Guests who manage to save room for dessert, they won’t be disappointed. Sorbets are homemade and include exotic flavors such as passionfruit.
Zebra is the only Four Diamond restaurant in Charlotte the serves breakfast and lunch. Breakfast runs 7 a.m.-9:30 a.m. followed by lunch served between 11:30 a.m. and 2 p.m. Monday through Friday. Dinner is served Monday through Saturday; Zebra is closed on Sunday.
Breakfast specialties include malted pancakes or eggs Benedict with Canadian Bacon.
Lunch can be a feast as well. While diners have the option of going for lighter fare, they also can choose the special three-course lunch.
Wine
Wine steward Alexander is able to recommend wines to complement any meal such as a New Zealand Pinot Noir with lamb. Most wine bottle prices range between $50 and $75, but a few are much more. For example, a 1994 vintage of rare Screaming Eagle tops the list at $2,500.
The by-the-glass menu changes frequently but always includes 15 whites and 15 reds. One secret for wine lovers: flights aren’t on the menu but are always available.
Special dining
The restaurant offers a Grand Tasting Menu for about $80 a guest (price will vary with menu). The meal is referred to as the restaurant’s “Tour de Force” since it offers between eight and 12 courses. The evening begins with an amuse bouche and wraps up with a souffle and Illy Cafe coffee. Between the two arrive foie gras, lamb and fresh seafood. The tasting menu is popular for holiday parties, business dinners and other events. Pre-picked wines to accompany each course can be served for an additional $38.
Additionally, Zebra hosts three or four wine dinners a year, featuring winemakers from Oregon and other up-and-coming wine regions. |
