Second Empire is a brief walk from the State Capitol and the downtown Raleigh area
The name of the restaurant, which can seat up to 210, is derived from its architectural style, Second Empire Victorian. The style was developed in France under Napoleon III. |
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By Jack Kneece
When you first read the menu at the Second Empire restaurant in Raleigh, it seems a combination of a fine New York restaurant, a fine New Orleans or Parisian restaurant with Southern regional cuisine added just to keep things balanced.
On a recent visit, this writer enjoyed duck, seared foie gras, a variety of vegetables and fine wines. The dining experience quickly showed why Second Empire has been awarded AAA’s Four Diamond Award. It is such a delightful menu that you immediately envy those diners around you who ordered other entrees. You feel as if you’d like to try them all. The wine list is long and complete with a wonderful variety of wines, many from France and Napa Valley.
Chef Daniel Schurr calls his brand of cooking “contemporary American cuisine.” He not only was magna cum laude and top in his class at the Culinary Institute of America, but he had a seven-year apprenticeship with Jean-Marie LaCroix at the Four Seasons in Philadelphia before moving to Raleigh. Second Empire is an elegant, high quality restaurant that deserves its fine reputation because of a richly varied menu of fine cuisine consistently well prepared.
The old Victorian home that houses the restaurant and downstairs tavern is interesting and holds a fitting history for the restaurant.
This home, known as the Dodd-Hinsdale House, at 330 Hillsborough St. in downtown Raleigh, was built by Thomas H. Briggs for the Raleigh Mayor William H. Dodd. The house was purchased in 1883 by John W. Hinsdale. Hinsdale family members lived in the house until summer 1971.
The name of the restaurant, which can seat up to 210, is derived from its architectural style, Second Empire Victorian. The style was developed in France under Napoleon III.
In 1995, Ted Reynolds, his wife Peggy, and their daughter and son, Kim and David, purchased the property and after 2 1/2 years of extensive renovations opened Second Empire Restaurant and Tavern on Sept. 9, 1997. The restaurant is led by owner/manager Kim Reynolds’ and Executive Chef Daniel Schurr, General Manager John Karcher and Special Events Coordinator Bennett Payne.
The building retains its original exterior, its heart-pine flooring, masonry, walls, doors and windows. The original kitchen was converted into a corporate dining room, called the Pine Room. During nice weather, diners enjoy a patio with canvas roof on the Harrington St. entrance to the tavern portion of the restaurant.
Second Empire is a brief walk from the State Capitol and the downtown Raleigh area. Because so many people made a habit of dining at Second Empire before or after going to the BTI Entertainment Center, the restaurant has teamed with the BTI center and offers a shuttle service to the center from the restaurant. There also is a pre-fixe menu for "A Night on the Town," that includes use of the shuttle.
Aside from the dining experience, Second Empire is a fascinating place to explore. The Main Dining Room East has 14-foot ceilings and can seat 60 people. It is decorated with Victorian style furniture, such as a massive mirror with ornate ormolu frame, sconces and tables covered with linen.
 The Main Dining Room West, also with 14-foot ceilings, has a similar mirror, sconces, artwork and is accessed by tall, arched entrances. The archways were added during the renovation. Both of the main dining rooms have fireplaces as a central feature and give the rooms a homey feel despite the large size.
One of the most interesting features of the upstairs is a broad, carpeted staircase made of black walnut. This was a project that took years to complete by a skilled local craftsman. The original staircase was used for firewood by homeless people who lived in the house briefly when it was unoccupied.
The Pine Room seats up to 48 people and is primarily designed for corporate and business meetings requiring privacy. Walls are paneled with North Carolina pine.
The Tavern level has a bar, a dining area, a patio and two private dining rooms, the Raleigh Room and the Capitol Room. The Tavern area, which can seat 54 people, has more of a cozy, less formal look. The walls are exposed brick, giving no hint that the area was once a basement with a dirt floor for most of its 121-year history.
The Tavern serves light fare such as fried calamari, sauteed shrimp and veal pasta - and the prices are commensurately lower.
The cuisine is adjusted to the seasons, with more mushroom and truffle dishes served in the fall and lighter fare in the summer.
First course choices include Empire baby mixed greens with Belgian endive, frisee lettuce and arugula served with Dijon mustard and shallot vinaigrette for $8.95. The highest-priced first course option was grilled Maine lobster and French bean salad, English peas and hearts of palm, roasted pineapple, purple cabbage slaw, micro beans, wasabi and orange dressing for $13.95;
Entrees range from four items priced at $24.95 -- grilled salmon, Pacific yellow fin tuna loin, stuffed Smithfield pork chop or pan-roasted escolar -- to grilled angus beef filet with mixed vegetables and sauteed potatoes for $35.95.
In addition, the restaurant offers a selection of cheeses, including Palhais of Portugal, Stilton from Leicestershire, England; Morbier of the Doubs region of France; tintern with shallots from England; Etorki from the Basque region of France and Manchego of La Mancha, Spain. You can get three of the cheeses for $12.50, five for $15, and all seven for $18.
For further information or reservations telephone (919) 829-3663. |
