Old Fort Pub - Hilton Head Island
Ruins surround the restaurant and guests can take a stroll to explore areas once occupied by Union troops during the Civil War. |
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By Tom Crosby
(July 2008) Rare are the restaurants that can combine a beautiful location with spectacular views, award winning cuisine and service. But such is the opportunity offered those who dine early at the AAA-rated Four Diamond Old Fort Pub restaurant located along Skull Creek on Hilton Head Island, SC.
Nestled in the marsh, the restaurant gives a superb view across the creek of Pinckney Island, a wildlife refuge green with oaks, palms and brush, washed in brilliant orange and red colors as the sun slowly dips below the horizon and dolphins splash about in the fading light.
This is the spot where historic Old Fort Mitchel once stood. Ruins surround the restaurant and guests can take a stroll to explore areas once occupied by Union troops during the Civil War.
The Pub stands where the mess hall is believed to have been and the present owner, The Lowrey Group, has made it their goal to design an unobtrusive restaurant that blends with its surroundings.
The coquina sidewalk leads the way through ancient oaks that stretch their branches around the two-story, wooden building’s corners. Upon walking up to the Old Fort Pub, one gets the impression the building has been there forever. In truth the restaurant was built in 1973, designed to look like an old fashioned southern home that looked as if it had grown there.
Inside
Inside, deep-colored wooden boards taken from Savannah manors make up the floor while the ceiling is planked with white washed boards showing off the Lowcountry style for which the region is so proud.
Three walls on the first floor are filled with picture windows stretching from just below the ceiling to a couple of feet above the floor, assuring a good view from almost every table of sunset or shrimp boats scooting across the water on their way home.
Ernest Hemingway style fans with wicker blades amplify the casual side of fine dining. Just up the stairs, which are to the right of the entrance, is the Sunset Room. Known for its wine dinners and wine tastings, Old Fort Pub’s second floor has a small bar and is perfect for a party of about 25 to 30 guests.
 Between six and eight times a year, the restaurant will invite a winemaker or owner of a winery to join patrons for a four course wine dinner, where the winery picks the wines and the Chef Keith Josefiak builds the menu to compliment. During the dinner, the winemaker explains finer points of enjoying the wines unique flavors and aromas and reveals how the wines are made.
In the center of the upstairs Sunset Room is an iron spiral staircase leading the way to the observation deck. Guests can relax there with a drink before dinner while enjoying cool breezes wafting over the water.
The Pub Room, located on the first floor, is a great place to unwind with friends at the main bar and enjoy a sporting event or two on the large television. Volume, however, is by request only for golf tournaments and major sporting events. This ensures the bar remains casually elegant, unlike raucous sports bars. A few tables sit on heart of pine floors and cherry wood bar stools curl around the bar built with aged oak. A framed mirror covers the back of the bar.
Just beyond the Pub Room is the Porch, an area great for enjoying Sunday Brunch or an evening meal. Planters bursting with color during the summer are strategically placed around the iron patio tables and chairs with tiki lamps providing a soft glow.
Food is presented with flair, on Eschenbach plain white china plates bracketed by non-ornate Guy Degrenne silverware. Crisp white linens are replaced after each meal and a small vase of four purple lilies sitting next to a candle lamp are the only table settings.
Just to the left of the restaurant is a quaint building called the Gallery, another spot ideal for the parties of 35 or less, such as wedding rehearsals.
Wine
Old Fort Pub earned the Wine Spectator Award of Excellence in 2007. Their selection of 275 wines, 50 served by the glass, is comprised mostly of California and Oregon wines that are carefully chosen to compliment the menu. The average price range for a bottle is between $30 and $70.
A certified sommelier took steps to ensure that all of the serving staff qualifies to advise a patron about wines. He created a wine education course, which each server must successfully complete before pouring a single bottle.
Frequently, diners can hear guests being greeted by name upon entering. And while describing specials, the waiter can explain the subtle difference between red grouper and black grouper and can tell a guest how firm the mahi mahi is.
It’s that type of relentless pursuit for excellence that has led the restaurant to be named “Best of” by Food Network and keeps customers coming back.
Food
Even though Union soldiers occupied the Fort area during the Civil War, the cuisine at this restaurant is all Southern, with grits, wild Atlantic Shrimp and May river Oysters on the menu. Of course, seafood is the house specialty.
She Crab Soup is the first item on the menu and the last is lump crab cakes. In between are specialties such as red snapper served with morels and roasted potatoes and parsley jus.
Everything from the butter to the dessert is made here including the ice cream. Bread is made fresh daily.
Simple plates allow the food to shine. For example, the salad is served with three romaine lettuce hearts as spokes from a cake-style layered circle. Entrees range from Tanglewood Farms chicken breast served with olives, roasted peppers and sauce kieve for $23 to the filet mignon for $36.95.
After the meal, crumbers wipe the table clean for coffee and dessert. Cream and sugar are presented on a modest pewter tray. Key Lime Pie and Ice Cream are favorite sweets to end the evening. (Updated July 2008) |
