By Tom Crosby 
At one time, Il Palio was one of the best-kept dining secrets in Chapel Hill. Not any more. Executive Chef Gennaro Villella has placed Il Palio on the culinary map as the only AAA Four Diamond rated Italian Ristorante in the state. Before coming to the United States, Villella learned his trade in native Italy while winning numerous awards. He was lured here to work as Executive Chef of Rex, Il Ristorante, in Los Angeles and later Ritz-Carlton's Fantino Restaurant in New York. He has also helped open two new Restaurants, II Circo in New York and Bellagio in Las Vegas. Now, Villella has brought big-time cooking to tiny Chapel Hill (population: 40,000).
Dinner reservations are always necessary and reservations are taken for lunch; none needed for breakfast, which offers an ample buffet complimentary to hotel guests, as well as a la carte items.
Villella has inaugurated a series of "Food and Wine Experiences", where a specially created menu highlighting a region in Italy is paired with wines from that region.
Modeled after a Tuscan villa, the Ristorante's wall decorations include cherubs, prints of water scenes, a lighted mural of the skyline of Siena made especially for the hotel.
 Tuscan columns dot the dining room, which seats up to 72 in comfortable wooden backed cushioned armchairs. Light sconces from Italy provide soft lighting in the room, a nice touch for those celebrating a romantic outing. There is a Terrace Room with an L-shape and brick floor, high windows adjacent to main dining room used for private parties or to expand the Ristorante on busy nights with 35 extra seats.
Diners use signature IL Palio china made by Villery and Bock, Luxembourg and the silverware is from Sambonet.
Sommalier Damon Haynes, who once worked in the AAA Five Diamond Fearrington House Inn near Pittsboro, NC, provides wine advice. Haynes, like all the wait staff, uses the name of the guest to signal a warm and professional welcome. (A recommended bottle of San Stefanetto, a 1997 Langhe Chardonnay for $45 is excellent and sometimes picked as a wine for theme dining).
Menus, in addition to having an English translation, also contain Villella's food preparation philosophy, noting his respect for each ingredient to provide cuisine with pure taste, unique flavor and a lot of passion. Ingredients are imported fresh from around the world, including cheeses that must be aged a specific number of days, extra virgin olive oil and spices. Small organic farms are targeted for the best ingredients. Nothing on the menu is pre-prepared or frozen. Fresh Fruchacti bread is prepared in a smokehouse in the rear of the hotel. Pastas are also made to order.
On any given night, as the Ristorante begins to fill up, the decor and food feels like a popular Italian Trattoria. The only difference is the language.
A sampling of the menu includes as an appetizer the Arugula salad with 450-day aged Pio Tosini Prosciutto from Parma, Italy with a fresh salad of arugula, sun-dried organic figs and aged Parmigiana Reggiano cheese.
Pasta lovers might vie for handmade Ravioletti filled with organic walnuts and Taleggio cheese, in a fresh wild mushroom and crispy sage sauce.
Entree dishes include regional local favorites such as seared Charleston swordfish or stuffed Ashley Farm chicken. There is standard rack of lamb and Angus Beef tenderloin choices. An IL Palio special is braised veal shank Ossobuco in an aromatic Gremolata sauce, served with Carnaroli rice saffron risotto and Parmigiana.
After dinner coffee - and desert, fresh Cannolli - continues the culinary experience.
Espresso is Mokador, imported from Faenza, Italy and the filter (regular or decaffeinate) coffee is blended exclusively in an IL Palio blend for the Ristorante by the local Counter Culture coffee house.
At the end of the evening when you leave, you may find yourself, instead of goodbye, saying "Ciao. Arrivederci."
Please call 919-918-2545 to make a reservation. |
