By Lorraine Kundla

(January 2008) As we approached the Five Diamond Umstead Hotel and Spa in Cary, NC, where Herons Restaurant is located, we thought we were headed for a memorable “fine dining” experience.  However, as the valet took our vehicle, we entered a modern “kingdom of calm” that erased the normal stresses of life.  Passing through the double glass doors, we left our cares behind amid an environment of subtle shades of blues and greens and natural stones.

To the left in an alcove, two smartly uniformed staff persons stood at the hotel check-in desk. In front of us in the entrance foyer a centerpiece of-4-foot-tall stalks of red reindeer was hanging helacinia in a clear crystal 3-foot tall vase on a large elegant wooden lacquered round table.  A 3-foot-high clear glass sculpture by Dale Chihuly on a matching lacquered wooden table drew us further toward the cocktail lounge.

Elegance in furnishings is repeated throughout the lobby, restaurant, and other public areas.  The walls are covered with peaceful, green sage fabric enhancing the spa-like feeling throughout.  A collection of 80 paintings, fine art prints, sculptures, and vases is artfully placed throughout the hotel and restaurant.  A brochure available at the front desk describes the collection of art by renowned artists from NC and the world. 

A sense of serenity washed over us and we absorbed the beauty of our surroundings while walking past paintings and display cases of fine art pieces of the collection.  As we approached Herons Restaurant, what appeared to be a part of the art display behind a wall of glass was actually the wine cellar containing 680 bottles, part of a 2,500 bottle collection.  These are stored between 52 and 55 degrees year round; humidity and temperature are closely regulated to preserve the quality of the collection.

The dining room continues the mood, and the art work reflects the name of the restaurant.  Two murals depict a southern marsh, the natural habitat of herons, in shades of blue and green, keeping in the same color family.  All the wood trim is imported from Italy, along with the etched glass surrounding the open kitchen where the chef, Phil Evans, performs his magic. 

The modernistic theme is continued in the restaurant with linen-covered tables and upholstered chairs. The tables are set with an artistic flair of six cascading Stassil crystal stemware. The flatware is of the gevi-prince design, and the table is graced with Villory Bach pure white china.  Displays of art become part of the architecture of the room with niches holding ceramic vases, platters, and bottles.  You dine surrounded by beauty.

This ambiance of excellence is complemented by top-notch service.  The extensive training of the wait staff began two months before the restaurant opened and included two weeks in the kitchen shadowing the chefs to learn how the food is prepared in order to better serve the guests and answer their questions.  This attention to detail results in service that is a unique blend of professionalism, Southern hospitality, and proper etiquette.  The attention is neither stuffy nor hovering but someone magically appears when needed.  The regional American menu offerings revolve around the season depending on what supplies are available in the local market.  The area is rich in agriculture (meats, fish, fruits, vegetables) and the chef relies on the harvest of the local farmers to create epicurean delights that will tempt even the most picky palate. 

Your dining experience is bookended by pleasant surprises from the chef that include a tasty “muse bouche” of country apple slaw consisting of apples, raisins and pecans, and topped with a strawberry slice.  A variety of tasty breads may include honey challa and ciabbiata served with unsalted sweet churned butter.
                                   
It was difficult to make a choice from the extensive menu’s mouth watering-descriptions of the tantalizing offerings, such as homemade duck rilette with truffled duck egg custard, baby frisse, and banyuls vinaigrette; goat milk ricotta angolotti served with summer tomato ragu and crispy tasso ham.  We finally decided upon prime beef tartar and tenderloin carpaccio served with parmeasano cornmeal cracker and cold-pressed olive oil, and the ceviche trio of red snapper, diver scallops, and halibut presented in three separate glass containers on a glass-based tray.  The distinct delicate flavors of the seafood were obvious.  The carpaccio has a “melt in your mouth quality” with a creamy aftertaste.  The tartar was tender and flavorful and a perfect complement to the parmigiano-cornmeal cracker and accompanied by a pickled quail egg.

For salads, my companion chose a combination of petit lettuces, warm goat cheese, heirloom tomatoes, local honey and black walnut vinaigrette.  The flavors ignited the taste buds with pleasure. In my salad, the strawberries, candied cashews, and stilton cheese enhanced the taste of the buttery local bib lettuce.  The combination of flavors was perfectly crowned with a white balsamic vinaigrette dressing.

The menu of the evening offered nine entrees consisting of four types of fish, poultry, and red meat.  We chose dry-aged prime sirloin with sautéed baby spinach, roasted Vidalia onions, country ham, local shiitakes, and Elodie Farm stilton cream.  It was cooked to perfection.  The wait staff suggested Dare Cabernet Franc from California to complement the sirloin, one of 25 wines available by the glass.

Our second entrée was char-grilled lamb loin chops, barbequed lamb shank, and field pea risotto with spearmint glaze.  The flavors of the food were enhanced by herbs from Herons’ own herb garden.  The shredded barbequed lamb shank gave a whole new meaning to the term “barbeque” because the spices didn’t overpower the flavor of the succulent lamb.  For this entrée the wine suggestion was Robertsen’s Phantom Ridge Pinotage from South Africa.

A crowning finish to this culinary experience was Hurricane Treviso, Herons’ rendition of a tiramisu with marsala mascarpone and espresso-scented lady fingers and a cappuccino and brownie sundae Baked Alaska, which is  a warm fudge brownie with vanilla ice cream and roasted salted pecans, topped by a crisp meringue with a swirl of caramel and whipped cream.

Our culinary journey ended as it began with another pleasant surprise from the chef, a banana hazelnut mini-muffin and a macaroon topped with chocolate sauce.  What a perfect ending to an exquisite dining experience!

Continue your evening with an after-dinner drink in front of a fireplace on the outdoor terrace while taking in panoramic views of a three-acre lake surrounded by flowering gardens and additional sculpture pieces from the art collection.  The hotel is set on 12 gorgeous wooded acres full of walking paths.  We vowed that we would return soon to this peaceful setting to enjoy another unique dining experience in this serene environment. (Updated January 2008)