By Jack Kneece
 (March 2008) Life is so full of average experiences— an average book, average movie, average meal— that when a truly superior dining experience comes along is will not easily be forgotten. Such was a meal enjoyed recently at the Gamekeeper Restaurant in the mountains of Blowing Rock outside of Boone, N.C., which has an AAA Four-Diamond rating.
Situated at 3005 Shull's Mill Road in Boone, a curvy mountain road, this rustic stone restaurant specializes in game and out of the ordinary cuisine. Owners Ken and Wendy Gordon, the chefs and proprietors, have a contagious zest for gourmet foods that shows in their ever changing menus and their novel approach to fine dining.
The young couple both attended Appalachian State University and then worked for the Nobles restaurant Group for eight years as they learned the art of fine cuisine preparation. Following his Noble’s experience an before opening Gamekeeper, Ken was Chef de Cuisine at the Linville Ridge Country club and Executive chef at the Roaring Gap Club. Wendy has served as line cook for the past several years and owns her own freelance photography business.
The stone house that houses the restaurant was built in the 1920s and features an old bar taken from an English pub .
Although the views of the mountains around the restaurant through big picture windows are spectacular, and the roaring fire in the stone fireplace makes for a cozy evening, this restaurant would have won acclaim even in a basement.
My appetizer was "Bombay sapphire cured Atlantic salmon with a roasted red pepper, green onion spread, minced red onions, capers and egg salad." Portions were generous. It was delicious and almost a meal in itself. Next came a mixed organic green salad tossed with sun-dried tomato, sherry wine, truffle vinaigrette, Parmesan cheese, Kalamata olives, grilled onions, house-made crackers and shredded carrots. Fresh restaurant-made bread with olive oil and balsamic vinegar came early and was hot and very good.
Choosing the entree was tough because among the offerings were osso buco-style venison shank; bison ribeye steak, long island duck breast, and spice rubbed ostrich fan filet; Australian beef tenderloin, mountain trout encrusted in cornmeal, and a vegetable plate of grilled and sauteed organic vegetables. Finally, after agonizing contemplation, the choice was bison ribeye, grilled medium rare, with horseradish, green onion sour cream and herbed macaroni and blue cheese, macaroni squash and turnip greens.
It was spectacularly delicious and a very tangible reason the restaurant has such a high AAA rating. A delicious house red was the perfect accompaniment. Finally, a cup of Honduran roast coffee and a bourbon and caramel bread pudding baked with a crumbled nut topping and topped with chantilly cream topped off the evening.
Other diners observed nearby had the ostrich— the most ordered entree of all, said the Gordons— or the duck. No one left a single morsel. Several were overheard exclaiming over the food.
The wait staff was attentive without being intrusive. For example, iced water was replenished almost by magic. One course followed another in perfect timing. All questions were answered briefly and knowledgeably.
One reason the food is so superb is that it is cooked over a wood fire. The delightful aroma of cooking meat and hardwood smoke wafts gently and mildly through the restaurant. Diners delighted in a veiled sunset through purple and yellow clouds as they enjoyed the gustatory experience.
The place is not inexpensive, however, with entrees averaging in the mid $30s and appetizers ranging from $9.95 (new Zealand mussels) to $17.95 (mixed game grill of ostrich, buffalo, rabbit-rattlesnake and buffalo-andouille sausages).
Ken Gordon said he worked briefly as a short-order cook as a 15-year-old young man and came to realize that food — unlike the food he was preparing daily— could be an art form and delicious as well. So, Ken decided to work at the best restaurants in the area to hone his skills and eventually when the Gamekeeper came on the market after struggling with rather ordinary fare— he and Wendy secured a bank loan and began to put their theories on fine dining to the test. The popularity of the place despite being off the beaten path has proved the young couple right.
The excellent wine list ranges from a $215 bottle of Opus One Cabernet Sauvignon from the Napa Valley in California to a $22 bottle of Andrew Harris Highfields Shiraz from Mudgee, Australia. Most bottles, including a large selection of Merlots, Zinfandels and Cabernets, are in the $30 to $100 range.
Wines by the glass range from $8 to $10, and include some French brands as well as Italian, Chilean and Portugal wines.
There is outdoor seating during good weather and the place has proved popular for private parties, wedding rehearsal dinners and receptions. It has been recommended by many magazines and newspapers, including Southern Living, Western North Carolina Magazine, Blue ridge Country Magazine, North Carolina Signature Magazine, Mountain Living, Smoky Mountain Living, Marquee Magazine, High Country Magazine, the Greensboro News & Record, Our State Magazine, and U.S. Airways' in-flight magazine.
Despite its out of the way location, reservations are necessary. It is 6 miles from downtown Boone and 4.5 miles from Blowing Rock. Ken said that because the roads can get icy and treacherous in a sleet or snow storm, only a hardy few can get to the restaurant, but he added, the allure is so strong, many chance it.
For reservations call 1 (828) 963-7400. Or reservations can be made on line at www.gamekeeper-nc.com.
(Updated March 2008)
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