- Smoking available
- Dressy casual
- cocktail lounge
- cocktails
- Semi accessibility
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by Joan Earyes
(March 2008) As we were strolling in historic and stately Charleston, on the corner of Bay and Queen Streets sat a sleek building built in 1834 with a light purple façade with white trim. Its unique appearance piqued our curiosity and drew us inside to the modern, contemporary style of the renowned Cypress Lowcountry Grille, which is a AAA Four Diamond rated restaurant.
As we entered, we were duly impressed with the large and sumptuous rust-color leather booths directly in front of us, a ceiling with circular lights that change color, and a stunning two-story high (30 x 24 feet) 6,000-bottle wine wall completely stocked with wine from around the world. An attractive blend of historic brick walls with plaster patches contrasted sharply with the laser lighting, modern accents, and the beauty of a highly polished wood floor.
 The juxtaposition of the starkness of the modern architecture and the warmness of Charleston hospitality infused us with excitement and anticipation as to what this restaurant had to offer. We were greeted warmly with an excellent “eye contact” welcome by our hostess and graciously seated at a linen-topped table at the edge of the dining room that seats 235. The flatware was by Christofle Hotel of France, and our waiter provided us with black napkins because we were wearing dark clothing (nice touch!). The tables were served by very comfortable, high-backed dining chairs with brocade covers.
Softening the modern décor was a beautiful, large (4 x 6 ft) painting of a cypress in a hand-carved wooden and gold-leaf frame painted by the late restaurant owner, Thomas Parsell, a self-taught artist. The impressionistic style of the painting, along with its excellent composition leads the eye from a magnificent cypress tree to its reflection in the water to an egret standing in the background. The painting will be featured in a cookbook of recipes from Cypress that will be available for purchase in March 2007. Also, signed and numbered prints of the painting (in a smaller size than the original but suitable for framing) will be available for purchase.
 As my eye continued upward, I could see through to the second floor and the woodbeams supporting the roof. In 2001, Charleston’s Post & Courier wrote: “In opening Cypress, they have raised the bar for Charleston restaurants. This is a special place.”
The open, well-equipped, state-of-the-art kitchen allowed us to catch a glimpse of the wood-burning grill and the place where culinary magic is performed by Executive Chef Craig Deihe and his talented staff, who offer fresh interpretations of classic low country cuisine, highlighting the rich bounty from the waters to the farmlands.
Tableside presentations and made-to-order dessert soufflés add a dramatic touch to Cypress’s dining experience, along with the open, collegial setting, the warm glow of candlelight, astonishing ambiance, and sumptuous cuisine.
Our meal began with sashimi tuna & kumomoto oysters that were complemented perfectly with a cilantro lime glaze and pineapple wasabi ($14). My dining companion chose fried green tomatoes, a squash blossom stuffed with shrimp, breakfish, and swordfish mouse on a bed of carmelized corn and baby okra presented on white square china plates ($15). She had never tasted squash blossom and okra before and gushed about how pleasantly surprised she was by the combination of the delicate flavors.
 The next perfectly timed course consisted of pan-seared swordfish topped with mytaki mushrooms, red-wine reduction, and potato gnocchi tossed in white truffle sauce on white oval plate ($28). Another choice was filet that was charred on the outside but rare inside and served with crisp and tender roasted asparagus ($29), both matched with wines from the 6,000 choices available.
We completed our meal with pumpkin cheesecake with a dark chewy gingerbread base, cranberry compote with a port wine reduction and pumpkin seed brittle ($9.5), molten chocolate cake ($9), or a sinfully smooth crème brulee ($8).
In the elegant and visually stunning bar seating approximately 50 on the second floor, we lingered over after-dinner wine and a cocktail, glanced through the round window six feet in diameter into the private dining room with 15-foot ceilings that holds 75 revelers, and checked out the activity in the open kitchen downstairs.
We could also observe the diners below and the 6,000 bottles of wine on the opposite wall. For wine aficionados, the wines range from a Quail Ridge Chardonnay for $26 a bottle to a 9L Pine Ridge Cabernet, 1986, for $2,500. In the regular size bottle (750ml) the most expensive is Chateau Margaux, 2000, for $800.
My dining partner and I agreed that the Cypress Lowcountry Grille is an ultra-modern architectural wonder that was undeniably a feast for our eyes and our appetites.
(Updated March 2008) – Joan Earyes |
