by Kristy Tolley

Once the stomping grounds of swashbuckling pirate legends like Blackbeard, Anne Bonney and Mary Reed, the Crystal Coast area of North Carolina NOW offers tamer adventures.

Today, genteel ladies speak with a sweet, southern drawl; historic homes beckon you to glimpse through the past; and other activities may whet your appetite for the life of a seafaring scoundrel. Look closely, and you may encounter a pirate queen or two.

The Crystal Coast area is comprised of the Southern Outer Banks towns of Beaufort, Atlantic Beach, and Pine Knoll Shores, among others. Each offers varied experiences for vacationers.
 
Historic Diversions
Stroll through Historic Beaufort at your leisure, or enjoy a guided tour aboard a vintage 1948 English double-decker bus. Either way, you’ll discover beautifully restored historic homes, some dating back to the 1700s; the local jail; and the courthouse. The courthouse, the oldest wooden-framed one in North Carolina still hosts mock trials of courthouse dramas for local school children.

One of the stops, St. Paul’s Episcopal Church (1857), houses original pews and a communion cup made from jewelry local women had donated.

The town’s apothecary and doctor’s office teems with curiosities such as bottles of “blood syrup”, an 1873 cash register, and antique, awkward-looking surgical tools that will make you appreciate our modern medical advances.

One interesting device, the “show globe”, was placed prominently in the window for visitors.  Green water in the globe meant it was safe to hang around. If the water was yellow or red, it was smart to keep on moving, as yellow or scarlet fever was rampant in town.

If you prefer a nighttime view, ghost walks through the Old Burying Grounds may interest you. One of the state’s oldest cemeteries, the burial grounds hold centuries-old gravestones.

Lighthouses and Horses
A quick boat ride from Beaufort will take you to Cape Lookout National Seashore, one of the few remaining natural barrier island chains in the world, with 57 miles of shoreline.

Guests can wander through the restored Keeper’s Quarters, built in the mid 1800s, or make the trek up the Cape Lookout Lighthouse, which is open to the public certain weekends of the year. The strenuous walk up this 163-foot lighthouse rewards climbers with stunning vistas of the shoreline.

If you enjoy your tour, stay overnight. Visitors can pitch a tent on the beach, and enjoy fishing, hiking, or just relaxing to the sound of the waves.

Nearby Shackleford Banks, also accessible by boat, is where you’ll find the Shackleford Horses, who have made this small island home for 300 years. People speculate the original horses swam to the island from a sinking Spanish ship.

Water Fun
Local paddling outfits like Pirate Queen Paddling can provide a different perspective. Guided excursions are a great way to learn about the history, nature and local lore. During the summer, kids can become pirates themselves. Using treasure maps, they must kayak their way to the buried treasure hidden somewhere on nearby Carrot Island.

There’s also a lot to discover underwater. Resting beneath the surface off the coast of Beaufort is Blackbeard’s ship, Queen Anne’s Revenge. Other impressive diving spots reveal more than 2,000 vessels, including German U-boats from World War II. Underwater photography clinics and shark and spear fishing dives are other ways to pass the time.

Fort Macon
Located just southwest of Beaufort, Fort Macon State Park, dates back to 1756. The fort’s museum consists of 26 rooms and feature aspects of the fort’s history. Some examples: restored commandant’s and enlisted men’s quarters; a display of the War Between the States and the 1862 siege of Fort Macon; and exhibits highlighting period uniforms of Fort Macon’s history from 1834.

Fort Macon also offers a 385-acre eco-wonderland. Estuaries and salt marshes are brimming with incredible wildlife-viewing opportunities. Visitors can swim, fish, or enjoy a picnic with a priceless view of Bogue Sound, Beaufort Inlet and the Atlantic Ocean.

Perhaps the most widely-anticipated attraction is the new Aquarium located in Pine Knoll Shores. Closed for extensive renovations in December 2003, the 93,000 square-foot Aquarium has re-opened, showcasing North Carolina’s different aquatic zones – mountain, piedmont, coastal plain, tidal waters and ocean.

The aquarium face-lift includes exhibits like a 32-foot Smoky Mountain waterfall, stingray and tidal touch pools, and a pair of frolicking river otters.